![]() If you can squish it easily with your hands, a dog can bend it with their mouth. The large holes that make treat giving so easy turn into an opportunity for a dog to get their teeth through it. I see many people using them, however there are a few risks.Ī determined dog can exhibit enough force to bend the plastic. If you report a comment, please also message the mods so that we don't miss it.īaskerville muzzles are very easy to find and cheap. The tips and advice here cannot replace a qualified certified trainer or veterinary behaviorist - if you are struggling please consider these resources for your dog. Please be aware of your tone and language. ![]() Positive reinforcement, it’s not just for dogs! People will be much more receptive to criticism and advice if it is constructive and comes from a place of compassion. This is a place for owners of reactive or formerly reactive dogs to discuss progress, setbacks, ask for advice, vent, and get support. Having a reactive dog can be an isolating and frustrating experience. We are a community for people that own reactive dogs! (A reactive dog is not required to join, but please keep discussions and posts focused on dog reactivity.) We support the LIMA (Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive) approach to dog training. To check out which brands will work for you, read over muzzle options linked further up the page or use the comparing muzzle options tab above.If you are asking for help for the first time, use our questionnaire. If you don't worry about your dog doing any of the above then you pretty much have no restrictions on the muzzles you can try (as long as they aren't unsafe or not recommended). This can narrow down your options further but most non scavenge proof muzzles can also be modded to stop scavenging/licking. If your dog licks, eats rocks/sticks, lives in a baited area etc then they are also a 'scavenger' and will need a scavenge proof muzzle as well as whatever muzzle choice needed above. This is just to decide whether or not you need a bite-proof muzzle. These categories are JUST FOR MTT, and has nothing to do with 'bite levels' or 'all dogs could bite'. If you aren't sure then your dog is automatically in the needs bite proof category because why take the chance, a bite proof muzzle would be much better suit to ensure if anything goes wrong or continues to get worse. This means they can use non bite proof muzzles, but they can also use bite proof ones. You should not use muzzles that are not bite-proof.ĭon't Need Bite-Proof: If your dog shows 0 signs of aggression, no anxiety, no reactivity, is trusted/known etc then your dog does not need a bite-proof muzzle. The point is that you need a bite proof muzzle to ensure if this ever does happen, the situation can be kept safe and under control. Need Bite-Proof: If your dog has bitten, attacked, growled, is reactive, gets nervous, is anxious, is not known to you etc, whether or not you have ever seen their teeth or if they have bitten. Whether MTT class your dog as a bite risk or not depends on a few things though the choice is fairly simple. Some muzzles are one or the other but other muzzles like JAFCO are good for both. As explained in Should You Muzzle, there are plenty of reason to muzzle your dog but when selecting a muzzle there is two main categories.
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